Page 18 - Boca Club News - September '21

Page 18, Boca Club News
Dining Out: Nothing More American

Than Opening a New Restaurant Now!

By Alan Serinsky of Bocaire Prime Your Taste Buds: Walt has tried to mix things cut of meat didn’t win any red ribbons at the meat auction.
Country Club. Hungry Al’s love up – some predictable, some inventive. You can go trendy Then again, 12 oz. at $39 should have been the first clue.
for food started very young. with the common Bangin’ Shrimp, the traditional “I have As for Hungry Al (that’s me), I selected the “Salmon-on-
Never satisfied with his Mom’s the best crab cake in town,” keep it simple with Calamari the-plate” ($28) with hopes of a perfectly cooked medium-
dishes, he started to cook his or their version of a Flatbread. translucent interior. Sadly, this was not my lucky night.
way through her “Betty Crocker Hungry D kept it simple with a basic “how can you mess Normally, I can tolerate a Salmon slightly over-cooked,
Cookbook.” During the years it up” Pesto Flatbread. Unfortunately, it fell flat in both crust but tonight I reluctantly sent this swimmer back upstream
to follow he spend many hours and flavor. I would prefer that a flatbread consist of a thin to the kitchen for another lap.
working in restaurants, both as server and cook, attending pizza, rather than a cracker. In this case, the chicken was This situation can result in a two-fold outcome. First,
cooking classes and traveling the world in an effort to expand diced so fine (almost minced) that it was hard to decipher you must sit idly at your table as your fellow diners
his palette. As a professional writer, Hungry Al offers his in the “I-wanna-be-Pesto sauce.” It lacked the taste and piecemeal a token portion of their plate, so you don’t seem
perspective on current food trends and guides you through punch of fresh basil with pine nuts, and seemed more like hungry or bored waiting for your second round. Or, as in
your local restaurant options. an aioli. most cases, Walt might decide to rush the cooking time so
For a nice salad, I would recommend the Roasted Beets as not to delay its re-entry to the finger-twirling patron who
Walt’s American Grill & Bar & Goat Cheese. You’ve got to like the sweetness of the beets simply wants to eat dinner with his company. Unfortunately,
Village Pointe Shopping Center as it offsets the acidity of the Dijon mustard vinaigrette, the second slice of Salmon took this shortcut to the table
6030 SW 18th Street which drapes the freshness of arugula salad. and left Hungry Al…hungry.
Boca Raton, FL 33433 I would make note that many of the appetizers, salads,
(561) 961-4767 and flatbreads start out of the gate at $16 and cross the From The Dessert Tray: We gave a pass on dessert
finish line at $22. Walt must believe our wallets are full this evening, but for those interested Walt offers four basic
Food For Thought: When it comes to new restaurants from sitting idle at home this past year and a half. American choices. Fork into a two-layer chocolate cake, a
in Boca Raton it’s not easy, and especially courageous New York cheesecake, a banana custard pie or a Bourbon
following a pandemic. Now that the green light is shining Straight From the Kitchen: Where in the world is bread pudding…each at $8 a slice. Let me know if Walt
bright and everyone is rushing back to their dining out Walt? I ask this question because it seemed right from the has any baking skills!
norms, it’s important to capture the curious crowds. So, start that no one was watching the “pass.” This is the point
getting off the starting blocks fast is essential. Just as where the dish sits right after plating with garnish, and upon Check Please: Even though Walt’s American Grill &
important is delivering what Boca eaters demand: quality delivery to the wait staff. Tip: Watch Gordon Ramsey in Bar might be reminiscent of J. Alexander’s or Houston’s,
food, fair portions, and service fit for royalty. Hell’s Kitchen and you’ll learn that you could live or die it doesn’t come with the expected Prime cut of meats,
Basically, Walt has his work cut out for himself! at the pivotal moment. sustainable fish, locally-sourced vegetables, or a pastry
Especially if Walt is not the chef. I have to assume that Walt is no Gordon Ramsey. But chef out back. As for the service, it was minimal and
Walt also has to know that food quality reigns supreme neither am I. What I do know is that it’s vital that someone inexperienced. Then again, the post-COVID help shortage
with most diners. Everything comes down to quality with the knowledge or understanding of proper plating and doesn’t help.
ingredients, proper food temperature, plate presentation, temperature control work this counter before delivery. At I do have to thank Walt for accommodating my Salmon
and prompt delivery to the table. our table we witnessed too many inconsistencies. misfortune with a credit on the check, but Hungry Al’s
Is Walt up to this monumental task? Let’s see… Hungry J, who was dealing with a tooth extraction from dinner of a baked potato doesn’t seem to compensate for
the early morning hours, kept it easy on his jaws with a the lower bill total.
First Impressions: For those of you who have been in very ordinary Lemon & Rosemary 1/2 Chicken ($24). I With all the missed hits, I might have to return and hope
these sticks-of-the-woods before, you will remember this self-labeled this dish “chicken on a plate.” Even though it was a bad night, or simply beginning kinks in the kitchen.
location as being the former Outback Steakhouse. Well, it this free-range rotisserie chicken was moist, the plating I really want Walt to succeed. With too many restaurant
has now made the kangaroo leap to become another Boca was bare of anything that went along with the described closings in the past 18 months,
contemporary restaurant. Inside you will find tiled floors, dish. Outside the two stalks of asparagus there was nothing. we should all welcome Walt’s
black and white everything, the bling appointed lighting Obviously, someone forgot the baked potato or even a twig with our new-found appetites.
and the ever so popular inside/outside bar. of rosemary. Could that someone be…Walt? So, to be a good American
The one thing Walt forgot was to take into consideration Hungry M is a devoted meat eater and I wasn’t surprised I’m going to give Walt two
the acoustics. If you don’t like to eat at concert level with her choice of the Strip Steak ($39). I’m sure Hungry M patriotic flags for food, and
decibels, I highly recommend that you sit at the tables or sets her bar very high as a loyal attendee at Abe & Louie’s. one ribbon to salute his
booths on the East side of the restaurant. So, her review of the steak was not earth-shattering as this outstanding restaurant décor!
Grape Expectations: What’s Wrong with Sweet?

By Ed Wolfarth, who moved to South As I hope you realize, all wines and grape varietals are France. Alsace, in the northeast corner, is the only
Florida after retiring with his wife, not created equal. Different wine-making techniques, time area in France producing Rieslings. In general, Alsatian
Vicki, as Professor of Sports Sciences of harvest and terroir all contribute to producing different Rieslings tend to be dry with higher levels of alcohol,
& Physical Education at both Queens wines from the same grape varietal. My column last month making for wines with more aromatic intensity and palate
College and Hofstra University. He discussed that all Chardonnays are not over-oaked and power. Look for Trimbach, Lucien Albrecht, Hugel et Fils
is a nationally ranked senior tennis taste of popcorn; let’s look at another misunderstood grape and Zind-Humbrecht.
player and long-time USPTA Elite varietal, Riesling. U.S.A. – Washington State. Washington’s reputation
Teaching Professional. Ed has written I’m always somewhat surprised that the Coca-Cola for producing outstanding American Rieslings continues.
many educational and tennis articles generation finds some Rieslings cloyingly sweet. Have you Washington seems to have figured out what it takes to craft
in the past. Over the past few years, Ed has turned his hobby examined a Pepsi or Coke can recently? A 12-ounce can elegant and “friendly” Rieslings in a slightly sweet and juicy
of wine collecting into a way of continuing his passion for contains 39 grams of sugar! A typical German Riesling, fruit style. Producers like Hogue, Chateau St. Michelle,
writing, and has written on the subject for publications. As a thought to be sweet, might contain 9-18 grams per liter. Columbia Crest and Pacific Rim are making wonderful,
self-proclaimed “wine snob,” he has collaborated on many Contrary to popular belief, the labels Spatlese, Auslese food-friendly wines. Considered by many, including myself,
wine lists for private clubs and a few restaurants. Ed can be and Beerenauslese aren’t levels of sweetness, but instead to be America’s finest Riesling is Eroica, a collaboration
reached at wolfarthe@msn.com. denote times the grapes were harvested. Of course the later between Dr. Loosen (Germany’s finest producer) and
the harvest, the more sugar content, but who’s quibbling. Chateau St. Michelle. It is easily available in wine shops
Let’s take a look at Rieslings from different parts of the and sells for around $20 per bottle. With its sharp acidity
world. and Mandarin orange taste, it pairs perfectly with Asian
Germany. Basically, you need to know the three or cuisine.
four levels of residual sugar and how to read a German Australia. While Australia produces less than half the
label. From less sweet to more, look for Kabinett, Spatlese, volume of American wines, it has 8% of the global market,
Auslese and Beerenauslese or Late Harvest on the label. while the US has 6%. Its international success is based on
Personally, I love the Kabinett level and wines from the its “fruit forward” approach. ‘Fruit forward’ is not about
Mosel. The last four vintages have been superb. Rieslings sweetness, but about the initial onset of the fruit taste.
have a terrific balance of acidity and sweetness and pair Australian wine labels are easy to read. They are labeled
perfectly with spicy foods. by the grape varietal, not by region or Appellation.
There are 13 wine producing regions in Germany, but Look for the dry Rieslings of the Clare Valley. Grosset
only three or four that are worth noting. Polish Hills, Jim Barry, Leasingham and Petaluma should
1. Mosel – produces light crisp wines. Look for producers be available on the American market and sell for $15 - $25
Dr. Loosen and JJ Prum. a bottle.
2. Pfalz – is Germany’s largest wine-producing area. While excellent Riesling is produced in many other
Ungstein and Forst may be available in local shops. areas, including the Finger Lakes of New York, Canada,
3. Rheingau – the wines here are usually richer and more Austria and Oregon, to name but a few. You wine consumers
full-bodied than Mosel. It is home to Germany’s most simply need to try these diverse Rieslings. Remember, they
famous Riesling, Schloss Johannisberg. come in many different styles, from the dry and powerful
4. Nahe – some of its wines have recently received world- Alsatians to the fruitiest of German Rieslings. And, not as
wide acclaim. Look for villages on the label: Niederhausen, sweet as a Coke or Pepsi!
Bad Munster and Norheim.