Page 10 - Southern Exposure - August '23

Page 10, Southern Exposure

travel

Tasmania’s Gulag Peninsula

Previously submitted by the late Don Kiselewski, MCC, D.S., Palm Beach Gardens Travel Leaders

Imagine if you will,
being very cold, hungry, and
without a job or a place to
live. Imagine that not only
you but also thousands of
people – almost the entire
country – are in the same
boat. Such was the case in
England in the early 19th
century. It appeared as though
crime was the only way out.
Not so much committing the
crime, and the benefit of the loot, but instead, the prospect of
being caught and sent to prison. A prison far from the shores
of the British Isles … and, a prison where one might get the
chance to continue life in a new country.
Such was the case with many of the prisoners that were
sent far from the British Isles to serve out their prison The Penitentiary at Port Arthur. The remains of the hospital stand on the hill.
sentences. Many committed what we might think of as petty
crimes, such as stealing a silver spoon or candlestick or a Geographically, the Tasman Peninsula (Gulag Peninsula) flourmill. The first two floors housed 136 convicts each in a
lace handkerchief. However, during this great depression in was ideal for the purpose of containing those sent there. separate room, and the fourth floor held 348 men sleeping
England, these offenses got them a boat ride to the other end There are two bottlenecks in the length of the peninsula, dormitory style. The third floor was the mess, library and
of the world – Australia. one at Dunalley, but most important was the narrowing of Catholic chapel. In 1897, the building was gutted by fire;
the landmass at Eaglehawk Neck. At this point, the lower however, one can still walk through the shell.
end of the peninsula was squeezed to 100 yards between The “Separate” Prison was built in 1849. It was a round
the Norfolk Bay and Tasman Sea. Keeping the prisoners building, designed to completely isolate prisoners from each
contained became easy … all it took was a line of vicious other and the guards, in solitary confinement and total silence.
dogs chained at intervals along the end of Eaglehawk Neck. Instead of flogging, this type of incarceration was supposed
The center of the lower portion of the peninsula is pierced to reform a prisoner’s mind.
by Carnarvon Bay, shown on maps as Port Arthur. Located The Health and Welfare Precinct contains the remains
in a cove on the western side of the bay is Port Arthur, the of the hospital (1842), the paupers’ mess (1864) and the
settlement named by Captain John Welsh and his surveyor in asylum (1865) … perhaps for the inmates of the Separate
1828. The prison took its name from the port located at the Prison. The paupers’ mess and dormitories that once stood
cove, named Russel Cove during the convict period, however in this area were provided for the ex-convicts who were too
later it was changed to Mason Cove. During the convict days, old or infirmed and relied on the government for assistance.
Port Arthur’s access was by sea … it wasn’t until 40 years Standing above the entire site is the guard tower
after the last prisoner was sent to Port Arthur that the road (1835), the most dominant feature of the Military and
down the peninsula was completed. Administration Precinct. The military compound here
In 1832, just four years after Captain Welsh named the housed the soldiers and provided an area to eat and play
port, prisoners started arriving. They continued to do so for sports, and acted as a parade ground. Many of the military
the next 21 years. In 1840, there were some 2,000 convicts had families with them on assignment at Port Arthur.
at Port Arthur. In 1877, after the last of the sentences were The Commandant’s office was the first exposure the new
served, the facility was closed. Some 12,500 convicts had prisoners had when they reached the site. They were lined
served their time at Port Arthur Prison, and were then released up in front of the building, roll was taken, and the rules
to homestead, if they so chose, the wilds of Australia. of the settlement were read to them.
The Convict Precinct just a little farther into the cove
contains the penitentiary that was formerly a granary and Travel on page 11

The guard tower stands with a prominent view of the entire
prison facility.

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