Page 12 - Boca Club News - August '19
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Page 12, Boca Club News
      Grape Expectations:



      Other White Wines for the Summer



      By Ed Wolfarth, who recently moved                seek out Pazos De Luzco. This bodega consistently produces   small cult following and are delicious. If you find one you
      to South Florida after retiring with              the finest examples of Albarino made in Spain. Also, Martin   like, buy it by the case. Look for wines from Grosset. While
      his wife, Vicki, as Professor of Sports           Codax can be found in almost all wine shops for $15, and is   the Polish Hill is a bit pricey ($40), the Pewsey Vale is under
      Sciences  &  Physical  Education  at              another wonderful alternative white wine.          $20 and is an exceptional example of a dry Riesling.
      both Queens College and Hofstra                      The Verdejo grape is mostly grown in an area called Rueda,      Alsatian Wines. In Alsace, in the northeast corner of
      University. He is a nationally ranked             in central Spain. This DO, or denomination of origin, is a   France near the German border, some of the great white
      senior tennis player and long-time                wine-producing region. There are over 80 such DOs in Spain.   wines of the world are being produced. I have stocked up
      USPTA Elite Teaching Professional.                The Verdejo grape is characterized by a fruity sweetness and   on two of my favorites for many years: Pinot Gris and
      Ed has written many educational and               a slightly bitter after taste. My favorite producer of 100%   Gewurtztraminer. Alsatian Pinot Gris, while made from the
      tennis articles in the past. Over the past few years, Ed has   Verdejo is Naia. This bodega consistently produces excellent   same grape as Italian Pinot Grigio, should not be confused
      turned his hobby of wine collecting into a way of continuing   Verdejos at fair prices. While their Naia (my favorite) and Las   with its distant and lighter cousin. Alsatian Pinot Gris has
      his passion for writing, and has written on the subject for   Brisas wines can be found with a bit of research, I have yet to   lower acidity, more alcohol and a spicy full-bodied texture.
      publications. As a self-proclaimed “wine snob,” he has   find their Naiades, generally thought to be Spain’s finest white   Gewurtztraminer is a entirely different cat! Its distinctive
      collaborated on many wine lists for private clubs and a few   wine, in any stateside wine shop. I did, however, find it at a   lychee nut flavor, spice and bit of sweetness make it the
      restaurants. Ed can be reached at wolfarthe@msn.com  restaurant in Spain this past spring. It certainly lived up to its   perfect match for spicy Asian cuisine. My go-to wine for all
         While most of us have tried the zippy Sauvignon Blancs   reputation. Other than Albarino and Verdejo, I would try any   Asian foods.
      from New Zealand and Pinot Grigio from Italy and, of course   wine made from the Godello grape. Its high glycerol level and      Greek Whites. Assyrtiko and Moschofilero. I can’t
      California Chardonnay, please allow me to suggest and fill   acidity makes for some distinctive white wines with higher   pronounce them either! Assyrtiko is pretty much limited to the
      you in on the “other” white wines with which you may not   alcohol content than most summer whites.   island of Santorini. These wines are filled with mineral and
      be as familiar.                                      Italian White Wines. Names like Verdicchio, Vermentino,   citrus flavors, with a touch of saltiness on the finish. Assyrtiko
         Torrontes is a grape varietal grown primarily in Argentina,   Suave and Orvieto may not be familiar to many wine drinkers,   is the perfect complement to fish dishes, much like Australian
      but which has recently been cloned in the USA. It is aromatic   but these moderately priced whites are excellent warm   Riesling. Moschofilero (you try to say it) is Greece’s answer
      with moderate acidity and distinctive tastes of peaches   weather wines. Verdicchio wines, as you may know from   to Chardonnay. Green apple, pear, grapefruit and with ample
      and apricots--some claim a nice hybrid of Sav Blanc and   the name, have a slightly greenish hue. These wines are high   acidity, these wines should be readily available. Boutari is
      Chardonnay. While not common on many wine lists, be   in acidity, and better ones can taste of almonds and lemon.   a reputable producer, as is Nasiaskos. Again, your wine
      sure to look for it in your local wine shops. You will not be   Vernaccia (or Vernaccia de San Gimignano) was the first   merchant should carry a Greek white to recommend.
      disappointed, and for less than $15 a bottle a bargain.  Italian white wine to be awarded a DOC status. It comes from      Muscadet - Since we’ve mentioned seafood wines, you
         Spanish White Wines - My two favorites, both readily   the Tuscany region and is generally regarded as the best white   cannot dismiss the classic Muscadet. Made from the Melon
      found in your local wine shops, are Verdejos and Albarinos.   wine in Italy. Suave wines are dry and light-bodied. The best   de Bourgogne grape in the Loire Valley, near the Atlantic
      These two indigenous grapes of Spain produce some   can have hints of peach and honeydew melon. Orvieto is a   Ocean, these wines are light and fresh with hints of lemon
      wonderfully refreshing summer whites. The Albarino wines   wine region, not a grape, and is a blend of two Italian grapes,   and sea breezes. At its best, Muscadet can be richer and more
      of Rias Baixas certainly fill the bill as a quintessential summer   Grechetto and Trebbiano. It is generally dry with moderate   age-worthy, but I prefer to drink young, recent vintages.
      wine. Rias Baixas is north of Portugal along the Atlantic coast   acidity.                           Look for Sevre et Maine on the bottle for the best examples.
      in Spain. The cool ocean breezes make for a crisp wine with      Australian Dry Riesling - Yes, I said Riesling! And I   Muscadet can easily be found for less than $15 a bottle.
      fine acidity, perfect with fish and salads. Albarinos (pronounce   did say dry. Not all Riesling is sweet. You may have been      The summer is here! Hot weather cries out for lighter,
      the “n” as in onion) are fruity and floral and can be fleshy in   familiar with Blue Nun or Liebfraumilsch. Those introductory   more refreshing wines with ample acidity and less alcohol.
      their mouth-feel. Martin Codax is a reliable producer and   German Rieslings came along at a time when sweet was “in.”   A wine to sip at pool side, or at a picnic or beach. A wine to
      offers a wonderful example of Albarino with its ripe fruity   While I happen to enjoy the Kabinett level wines of Germany,   be served chilled, but not so cold as to lose all the flavors and
      taste and balanced acidity. It should be readily found in your   the Rieslings of the Clare and Eden Valleys offer wines of   nuances. The above-mentioned surely fill the bill. Till next
      local wine shop. For an outstanding version of 100% Albarino,   zesty acidity and intense fruit flavors. These wines have a   time…drink…enjoy!”
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