Page 12 - Boca Exposure - September '19

Page 12, Boca Exposure
Dining Out:

You Can Count The Stars…But Don’t Count Too High!

By Alan Serinsky of Bocaire. of quality. I have yet to visit a Michelin-rated restaurant that is comparable to a pompano or red snapper and nets that
Hungry Al’s love of food started also utilizes its dining room for breakfast and lunch. seafood simplicity fish lovers can’t resist.
young. Never satisfied at the In this case it would have been smart to throw down a Hungry J, on the other hand, gravitated instantly to
family dinner table with his linen tablecloth, or even a placemat. Flories’ New Zealand Lamb Shoulder ($38). Here Mauro’s
Mom’s dishes, he started to cook Straight From The Kitchen: The food here is inspired recipe calls for the protein to be first Sous-vide (low temp,
his own way through her Betty Mediterranean with a dash of Florida influence. The man long cooking time in water), then finished on the Yakitori
Crocker cookbook. His food behind the food is the 3-star Michelin chef Mauro Colagreco. grill. This tender, tasty meat was accompanied by sweet
journey consisted of working If you’re ever in Southern France make a bucket list visit to potato cubes, dates, walnuts and a black sesame sauce. This
many restaurants both as server and cook, attending his world-known restaurant called Mirazur. scored big with Hungry J and myself.
numerous cooking classes, and traveling the world in an The kitchen utilizes a live-fire cooking approach that Speaking of myself, Hungry Al (that’s me), selected
effort to expand his palette of different flavors and cuisines. incorporates a stone hearth oven, yakitori grill and à la borche the Seared Snapper Fillet ($38). Sadly, I was misinformed
As a professional writer, Hungry Al will give you his spit roasting technique. that I was getting yellowtail snapper only to later discover
perspective on current food trends and guide you through To start, we all shared three appetizers: The first was an it was red snapper. Who’s doing the fishing here? Then, as
your local restaurant choices. Heirloom Tomatoes and Peach Carpaccio ($19). This creative a double whammy, my first delivery of snapper was totally
preparation hit on all cylinders. Perfectly mandoline-sliced overcooked.
Flories peaches and tomatoes were plated in full carpaccio style, then But my luck got better. The second time around it was
Four Seasons Hotel treated with Sicilian pistachios and dressed with a ginger excellent. The chef nailed the crispiness of the skin, perfected
2800 South Ocean Blvd. vinaigrette. the interior temperature, and beautifully executed the silky
Palm Beach, FL 33480 The second winner in taste, but not in cost, was the Riviera smooth Asian treated sauce with bok choy.
(561) 582-2800 Salad ($27). Served in a huge bowl that could feed a cage From The Dessert Tray: Since we were celebrating a
of rabbits, it was an incredibly composed garden blend of birthday, the waiter decided to treat the table to a special
Food For Thought: I have been to a few Michelin-rated mixed greens, micro greens, tapenade, fresh vegetables, and dessert for the occasion. Nice…but it seemed almost foolish
restaurants in my day. I’m not bragging, but you don’t know heirloom tomatoes. It also was comprised of seared tuna when he delivered an ice cream tart the size of a lime with
what you don’t know. The question is, are these high-end slices that didn’t reach the heights of my favorite sushi spot. four forks. Seeing the disappointment on our faces he
dining experiences worth the dollars or the hype they portray? We also emptied our wallets on the appetizer, Yakitori- must have twisted some arms to return with their signature
It’s a mixed plate. After eating at 2- or 3-star Michelin grilled Carabinero Prawns and Avocado, for a shocking ticket dessert, White Chocolate Mousse ($14). This was incredibly
restaurants, I sometimes feel like I’ve gone to culinary of $32. Plated with huge (heads included) prawns, this dish delicious. Each bite delivered the layers of passion fruit
heaven, and then there are others that leave me hungry and certainly delivered on taste but didn’t warrant the expense. coulis, creamy rich mousse, and homemade lemon sorbet.
poor. For example, the Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin According to my calculator, that’s about six bites at $5.35 Excellent!
holds two celestial stars, whereby Iceland’s only Michelin- each. And at that price I want to see Mauro in the kitchen. Check Please: It’s obvious there were some hits and
rated restaurant, The Dill, eventually lost its guiding light As for the center stage entrees, they didn’t disappoint. misses. The service was friendly but untrained. The wine was
this year. I’m not surprised! Hungry G and Hungry D shared the special of the night: never poured after the first glass. The bread was good but
So, what does this all have to do with Flories, which Dorade or Dorado ($65) heavily-salted and encrusted in a had to be requested. The table was yearning for a tablecloth,
recently opened at the Four Seasons Hotel in Palm Beach? pizza dough, then baked in their stone hearth oven. the prices were typically Palm Beach, but the food was
In an effort to bring new diners into the facility, the hotel This Mediterranean preparation allows the delicate fish to surprisingly good. So, let us say that Flories didn’t actually
spent time and money on both renovation and menu. With the cook gently and evenly without cooking oils. The end result floor us. Nor did we see any Michelin stars out that night.
hope of luring in new guests and local foodies, they solicited is moist fish that’s perfectly seasoned. Don’t worry about it But we did have a great celebration. So, the Hungry Squad
a Michelin-rated chef to overlook these efforts. being overly salted; the fish skin acts as a layer of protection. gives a big candle for the birthday
But herein lies the paradox. With this dish it’s all about the fish. No fancy sauces, no gal and only three golden stars for H H H
No Michelin-rated chef is going to leave an established unique stuffing, no glazes. Its rich, succulent meaty flavor Flories.
award-winning restaurant to work full-time for a corporate
hotel. In contrast, the hotels want you to believe they do.
It’s what we call in marketing “perceived value.” You think
you’re getting a celebrity chef, but in reality you’re only
getting his brand name and his recipes. Welcome to Flories.
First Impressions: I have been to the Four Seasons’
restaurants before, all with different variations of décor and
food. This one by far is the least formal. The new look is
beautifully decorated, with warm pastel colors, that helps
portray the beach environment in a relaxed and understated
formality.
But for me this is the problem. If you’re going to pitch a
Michelin-level dining experience there has to be some form
of uniqueness or current relativity to what awards this level

Reality Check from page 11

Whether laughing comes naturally to you or is a
coached behavior, it’s obvious that laughing is a healthy
thing to do. Doctors advise us to live a healthy lifestyle
that includes regular exercise, no smoking, and a diet
of whole foods low in saturated fats to help reduce the
risk of heart disease. It seems to me that the inclusion
of a daily dose of hearty laughter is just as important.
It wouldn’t hurt for all of us to “lighten” up, chill out
and not take ourselves so seriously. I’ll leave you with
this quote from laughter therapist, Enda Junkins, which
clearly sums it up and says it all:
“We need to laugh more and seek stress-reducing
humor in our everyday lives. Laughter is the human gift
for coping and for survival…Laughter helps us roll with
the punches that inevitably come our way. The power of
laughter is unleashed every time we laugh. In today’s
stressful world, we need to laugh much more.”

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