Page 13 - Boca Club News - November '19

Boca Club News, Page 13
Dining Out: I’m Betting on Elisabetta!

By Alan Serinsky of Bocaire. special they have on Wednesday? Therein lies the problem were as good as the Dario Orange Olive Cake ($7) you are
Hungry Al’s love of food started with daily specials. in for a sweet treat regardless of your choice. I was happy to
young. Never satisfied at the Prime Your Taste Buds: The choices here are huge. There discover this slight savory note of olive oil to help lend an
family dinner table with his are three categories of starters, ranging from the cocktail type appealing complexity to the cake. This moist piece of cake
Mom’s dishes, he started to cook consisting of olives, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Coccoli was complimented with a hint of orange peel and a few pine
his own way through her Betty Fritti, Marcona Almonds, and Garlic bread. These range from nuts and rosemary.
Crocker cookbook. His food $6 to $13, or you can dig into your wallets and go for the Check Please: Even though we have to endure the
journey consisted of working Grand Assortment priced at $37. Really??? existence of more corporate restaurants, I have to admit they
many restaurants both as server and cook, attending Then you have the Antipasti section that covers everything have the resources to achieve innovative dining. I also have
numerous cooking classes, and traveling the world in an effort from salads to the traditional Meatballs and Calamari. Here to give credit to the energy they bring to the restaurant scene.
to expand his palette of different flavors and cuisines. As a I indulged in the Meatballs ($12), since it has always been Elisabetta is a great concept and a great addition to Atlantic
professional writer, Hungry Al will give you his perspective my personal barometer to measure anything Italian. Ave.
on current food trends and guide you through your local These meatballs (4) in the shape of billiard balls were I also want to comment on one technical achievement:
restaurant choices. excellent. Perfect density, properly seasoned, they reminded their usage of a portable check-out device, much like you
me of my hometown corner Italian restaurant where, as a kid, would see all over Europe. This is a clear indication that
Elisabetta Meatball Parmigiana sandwiches were my staple. To this day America has finally awakened. Now the only thing that leaves
32 East Atlantic Ave. I still crave them. your table side is not your credit card, but a printed receipt
Delray Beach, Fl 33444 Hungry D and I also decided to split a Caesar Salad ($11), as you exit.
(561) 560-6699 which I would have reconsidered after seeing the size of the As for Elisabetta, I’m all in with my chips that
salad. I always contemplate why the need to minimize these they will be a major success in Delray Beach.
Food for Thought: It’s hard to believe there’s another portions since Romaine lettuce costs less than 25 cents per That’s why I’m betting my stack of three-and-a-
Italian restaurant opening in Delray Beach. I can easily count plate. Nevertheless, the dressing was excellent. half golden chips for this Italian bistro at the old
15 of them without any effort. So, what motivates another There are also a few of those trending Salmui and 32 East.
one to share a slice of the pizza pie? In this case it’s the rapid Formaggio plate selections that I personally find over-priced
From the Pizza Oven: Elisabetta is big on Pizza! Plus... Grape
expansion of how restaurant groups attempt to dominate the and under-delivered in quantity.
market of diners in highly populated areas.
Have you been to Louie Bossi in Boca or Ft. Lauderdale? if you go during Happy Hour at the bar, pizzas are 50% off.
Tried to get a seat at their bar any night of the week? If you visit the bar was slammed and the need to supply the demand Expectations:
Seems like a good deal. Well, not necessarily. On my recent
have, then you know their success. Multi-million-dollar
interior designs, large and active bar scene, over-the-top resulted in pizzas flying out of the oven like Frisbees.
menu selections, and a know-how to create opening hype. undercooked and doughy. I called out the manager on this Holiday Wines

This conveyer belt of pizzas unfortunately left the crust
Elisabetta is another creation of this, so far, successful
restaurant formula. and she sincerely admitted I was right. I passed on a redo.
It’s all good now...but somehow, I long for the days when Straight From the Kitchen: As I had mentioned above, By Ed Wolfarth, who recently moved
my parents would drag us kids to the corner Italian bar & you have the daily specials. Monday eggplant parmigiana, to South Florida after retiring with
grill in our small town in upstate New York. There I became Thursday veal chop parmigiana, Sunday it’s chicken. Since his wife, Vicki, as Professor of Sports
accustomed to red and white checked table cloths, freshly I’ve been back two times, I have tried two out of three. The Sciences & Physical Education at
made garlic bread, table conversation that could be heard, eggplant was coated, grilled, and stacked with red sauce rich both Queens College and Hofstra
and a bill that was typically under $25 for four. with San Marzano tomatoes, plated with a side of perfectly University. He is a nationally ranked
Yes, those Mom & Pop restaurants are becoming extinct cooked spaghetti. The chicken was a close imitation of this senior tennis player and long-time
here in Florida. No longer are Momma’s authentic Italian preparation with the inclusion of tender breast and a full slice USPTA Elite Teaching Professional.
recipes, handed down by generations, appreciated anymore. of mozzarella as a topper. Ed has written many educational and
Gone are those homemade meatballs, rich tomato gravy, or Hungry E and Hungry M both seem to have an affinity tennis articles in the past. Over the past few years, Ed has
lasagna that took more than a day to prepare. for Bolognese. Elisabetta’s version comes with Rigatoni and turned his hobby of wine collecting into a way of continuing
First Impressions: Remember 32 East Restaurant? scores on all levels. The pasta passed my texture taste with his passion for writing, and has written on the subject for
Well, you wouldn’t recognize it now! Like a magic trick this just enough bite to allow the semolina wheat to register its publications. As a self-proclaimed “wine snob,” he has
metamorphosis is amazing: new bar location, open kitchen, flour consistency. The meat ragout was rich and savory in collaborated on many wine lists for private clubs and a few
booth seating, upstairs dining, patio expansion. It certainly beef stock and sweet in flavor. restaurants. Ed can be reached at wolfarthe@msn.com.
makes one feel like he or she is dining strictly Italian. Luckily, Menu Note: The pasta selections range from $17 up to With Thanksgiving just around the corner, and Christmas
this restaurant comes with an elevator for easy accessibility $31. There’s also a selection of fish and meat entrees. What fast approaching, I have received a number of emails from
for those in need. they call a Bistecca (known worldwide as a Porterhouse) is this newspaper’s readers requesting some recommendations
The menu here at Elisabetta is heavily pizza and pasta. simply a New York cut (24 ozs., $49) or a Ribeye for the for seasonal festive wines. With that in mind, I recall having
I guess Elisabetta knows about profit margins. There is an same price. Or you can opt for a Spiedini of Shrimp ($29) suggested some ideas in my column exactly one year ago
extensive appetizer section along with an every-day-of-the- or fish of the day. that still stand the test of time...so I offer them once again.
week special. Why is it that on Sunday I want to have the From the Dessert Tray: If any of the other desserts The crisp weather (not necessarily in Florida) and festive
times ahead call for “fun” wines to go with every occasion,
and nothing fills that category better than Beaujolais.
In early November, Beaujolais Nouveau is shipped
around the world so it can be available on the third Thursday
of November. Beaujolais is made from the Gamay grape
and is produced in the Beaujolais region just south of
Burgundy. These wines are produced in a style (carbonic
maceration) that makes them fresh, fruity, with high acidity
and with very little tannins. While Beaujolais Nouveau is a
simple fun wine, easily quaffable, there are 10 other “single
vineyard” Beaujolais that are more serious wines. These are
often referred to as a “poor man’s” Burgundy in that they
have similar characteristics to the great and expensive red
burgundies but at a fraction of the cost. Let’s take a look at
them.
Single vineyard, or Cru, Beaujolais are more serious
wines. You usually do not see the word Beaujolais on the
label, as they try to separate themselves from the Nouveau
variety. These wines are often darker in color, full-bodied and
longer living. The Beaujolais cru wines are: Saint Amour,
Brouilly, Chenas, Chiroubles, Cote du Brouilly, Fleurie,
Juliennes, Regnie, Moulin a Vent and Morgon. No need to
memorize these. There’s no quiz at the end, but we will say
a bit more about the more readily available Cru wines. These
are wines you need to try.
While most wine aficionados consider the Ms---Morgon
and Moulin a Vent---as the only really age-worthy Beaujolais,
there are other single vineyard wines that you need to taste.
Fleurie is produced in a more masculine style with tastes
of red currant and black cherry, mouth-watering acidity and
a long refreshing finish. Many exhibit silky tannins, dark
fruit flavors and a long spicy finish. Producers to seek out
are Georges Duboeuf and Clos de la Roilette. The Duboeuf
Flower Label is most commonly found in wine shops and
sells for less than $20 a bottle. It comes highly recommended.

Grape Expectations on page 14