Page 22 - Southern Exposure - April '21

Page 22, Southern Exposure

Travel from page 21

is the belief that the island is inhabited by the dead. The
Ngarrindjeri and Kuma Aboriginal mainland tell stories in
their “dream time” of spirits on the island. In their beliefs
today, the island is known as the “Land of the Dead.”
Because of the rugged coast on Kangaroo Island and
most of South Australia, lighthouses to aid in navigation
became a necessity. “Shipwreck coast” is the name
given to this part of the world. An average of one wreck
per mile of shoreline of South Australia and Victoria
emphasized the magnitude of the navigation problems
involved. Cape du Couedic, the rugged southwestern
part of the island, was named in honor of distinguished
French sea captain Charles Louis, Chevalier du Couedic
de Kergoualer. Shipwrecks at this location included the
Mars (1875), Emily Smith (1877) and Loch Sloy (1899),
which prompted the construction of a kerosene-powered
light in the picturesque lighthouse structure in 1909. Built
before roads, the lighthouse was serviced by sea until
1940.
Before WWII, approximately 75 percent of the island
was in virgin condition and had never been cleared of its
original vegetation for farming. In 1948, 174 excited and
optimistic men were selected for the task of homesteading
the unspoiled scrub. Families operated from a work base
in the center of the island, which became the village of
Pandama in order to tackle the monumental task, living in primitive barrack-like conditions. By 1964, these One of the highlights on the island is found in the
hearty individuals had achieved their goal of converting Flinders Chase National Park. They are the Remarkable
the raw land into workable farms and pastures for their Rocks. These isolated granite boulders stand between 4
sheep. Today, large herds of kangaroos run freely over and 5 meters high and have been formed in unusual and
these pasture lands at will. Often herds of 500 kangaroos fantastic shapes. The boulders look as if they had been
are seen in one paddock at the same time, grazing on the placed on top of a large dome of granite by some super
beautiful green grass. In 2001, the kangaroo population power. To some, the rocks appear castle-like and to others
was estimated at 27,000 … that’s about seven kangaroos like decaying teeth … and from a distance they resemble
per square mile. animals walking over the hill. What I found interesting
There is a plethora of other animals on the island as about the formations is that many of the boulders were
well. Seal Beach, as well as the coastline around the island, actually hollowed out and only a thin shell of granite
is literally covered by sea lions returning from their swim enclosed the void – empty boulders.
to feed in the ocean. The koala was thought to be extinct at For those who are not keen on cathedrals, museums,
one time on the island because of fires and loss of habitat. castles and other urban touring opportunities, Kangaroo
Nine pair and a few young were introduced back on the Island is just the place for you to visit. It’s nature at its
island from French Island in Victoria in the 1930s. As a best, presented in a laid-back Australian format by friendly
result of the controlled environment and lack of predators, Aussies who wouldn’t leave the island for any other place
their number is estimated at over 2,000. These “cuddly” on Earth.
animals can easily be spotted in the manna, swamp or blue Don Kiselewski writes from his personal experiences,
gum tree on the island. having traveled in 122 countries and cruised the oceans,
They used to be called “fairy” penguins; however, seas and rivers of the world. Palm Beach Gardens Travel
the name has been upgraded to “little penguins.” At Leaders, his family owned and operated agency, is located
dusk, these small creatures come ashore, literally by the at Mirasol Town Square, 11360 North Jog Road, Building
thousands, along the rocky beach to spend their evening A, Suite 102-6, Palm Beach Gardens. The agency has been
on dry land. A popular activity on the island is to watch serving the travel needs of the South Florida area for over
the penguin parade march ashore. a quarter of a century. Contact him at (561) 694-9696 or
The echidna and platypus (both found at Kangaroo Island) Aussie@PBGTravel.com.
are the only two monotremes found on our planet. The
echidna, which looks like an ant-eating porcupine, lays an Photos by Don Kiselewski
egg in her pouch, which is much like the pouch of marsupials;
however, when the egg is hatched she nurses the young.

Cape du Couedic Lighthouse

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