Page 13 - The Islander - March '22
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The Islander, Page 13

      Travel from page 12                                   Jabiru is “the” major town
                                                         in Kakadu Park. Located
         Almost 500 square kilometers are tied up in the tidal and   at the border of Arnhem
      coastal flats on the northern tip of the peninsula. Mangrove   Land, it was constructed to
      forests that run through this area are ideal for fish breeding,   supply housing to the foreign
      especially the barramundi, which is the staple fish of the   workers who came to work the
      Aborigine. This water-intensive habitat is internationally   Ranger uranium mine. This
      recognized as being significant for migratory birds.  facility has greatly slowed
         Arnhem Land, named after the Dutch ship Arnhem that   its production because of the
      explored the territory in 1623, is today the northern homeland   cost  to  extract  and  supply
      of the Aborigine. Its borders have been established and a   the ore from this location
      permit, issued by the Aboriginal clan, is required to visit and   and the plunging price for
      travel over the land. Joint tribal authorities manage the land,   uranium ore. Long before the
      attempting to keep it in its natural condition. Even when the   mine work was even started,
      Gagudju Crocodile Hotel was built on the border of Arnhem   the Aborigine knew the area   Kakadu’s renowned rock art has recorded and preserved the Aboriginal people’s history and
      Land, the tribal council dictated its design. The first order   around the mine as the “sick   culture for millennia.
      was that it be no higher than the surrounding trees; this   place.” It is suspected that,
      was no problem. However the floor plan generated unique   over the millennia, low levels of radiation may have affected      Throughout Australia most Aborigines speak English,
      requirements. What better place to enter the building than   parts of the population, creating this omen over the land.  however those in Arnhem Land still speak the language
      through the mouth of the crocodile? This leads into the croc’s      Arnhem Land exists today without hard surface roads,   of their clan, each different than the others. Bininj/
      head (lobby). Large exhaust fans have become the eyes, and   power distribution, water and other elements of a civilization   Mungguy is the dominant clan in the area and establishes
      as you may suspect, the rooms are in the belly of the beast,   as we know them; however, this is not a deterrent to the   the standards for social behavior and customs. They are
      looking onto a center courtyard with a pool the shape of a   people. They continue to live as their ancestors did – off the   extremely respectful of the dead and their burial places.
      croc’s heart. This pool is the only one the park service has   land and protected from nature in the caves of the area of   Speaking the name of a dead person or looking at that
      considered safe for swimming in all of Kakadu and Arnhem   simple corrugated metal huts that they have built. Because   person’s image is considered inappropriate. They also
      Land. By the way, as you might expect, the hotel’s services   they have always been hunters and gatherers, they do not   appreciate  their  privacy  and  are  reluctant  to  pose  for
      entrance is at the other end of the croc.          build large communities, but rather, live in small clans and   photos. And, although shy, they are friendly and say:
                                                         tribes … working as a unit for survival. They have learned
                                                         to manage their resources wisely, taking only what they need   Ngad Bininj ngarri-djare ngudda wurrim-ire wurrih-nan
                                                         for subsistence. To do this to the utmost advantage, they have   ngad gun-bolk dja ngad culture.
                                                         learned to accurately forecast the weather and the seasons. This
                                                         knowledge has been handed down to them in Dreamtime. They      Translation: “We Aboriginal people want you to come
                                                         know that the appearance of certain butterflies, grasshoppers,   see our country and share our culture.”
                                                         worms and other insects – and certain colors of plants – signify
                                                         specific consequences in terms of weather. We could only wish      Don Kiselewski writes from his personal experiences,
                                                         that our meteorologists were that accurate.       having traveled in 122 countries and cruised the oceans,
                                                            Throughout the ages they have used fire and controlled   seas and rivers of the world. Palm Beach Gardens Travel
                                                         burning. It is a part of their way of life. Quoting Big Bill   Leaders,  his  family  owned  and  operated  agency,  is
                                                         Neidjie, Bunitj Clan elder:                       located at Mirasol Town Square, 11360 North Jog Road,
                                                                                                           Building A, Suite 102-6, Palm Beach Gardens. The agency
                                                         The earth, I never damage.                        has been serving the travel needs of the South Florida
                                                         I look after. Fire is nothing, just clean up.     area for over a quarter of a century. Contact him at (561)
                                                         When you burn, new grass coming up.               694-9696 or Aussie@PBGTravel.com.
                                                         That means good animal soon.
                                                         Might be goanna, possum, wallaby.                                            Photos by Don Kiselewski
      The Gagudju Crocodile Hotel                        Burn him off, new grass coming up, new life all over.
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