Page 14 - Palm City Spotlight - November '22

Page 14, Palm City Spotlight

travel

La Rochelle: Town Of Two

Countries

By Don Kiselewski, MCC,
D.S., Palm Beach Gardens
Travel Leaders
Aquitaine is the traditional
name for the southwestern
province in France where
La Rochelle can be found.
The area was first controlled
and used by Julius Caesar in
the first century B.C. Under
the Romans, the province
extended from the Loire River The Saint-Nicholas Tower (left) and the Chain Tower (right)
in the north to a location south of the estuary known as Gironde.
th
La Rochelle was born in the early 12 century. At that time the second crusade to
islands of Oléron and Ré, off the west coast of France, had already the Holy Land, it was
established their personalities. But La Rochelle was just a tiny rumored that she had
dot on the map. The first references of La Rochelle mentioned committed adultery.
its salt pans and fishing fleet. It was recorded in 996 A.D. among The scandal, along
the archives of St. Cyprian’s Abbey in Poitiers, and noted a small with the fact that she
population of people who lived a fair distance from the coast, had not given the king
near the church of Notre Dame de Cougnes. Archeological a male heir and a few
excavations at the site revealed a Roman agricultural center as other issues including
well as a treasure in Roman coins that were found in the area blood kinship with
known as Benon. the king, resulted
The area was controlled by the Duke of Aquitaine, whose in an annulment of
titles were held by the Counts of Poitiers from the 10th to the their marriage. She The Old Prison of La Rochelle
12th century. The last duke was William X who wasn’t as well kept her possessions
known or powerful as his daughter, Eleanor. Whether it was her and two years later in
beauty or her land possessions, the fact remains that she was able 1154, she gave them
to shape the nationality of that part of the world. In 1137, she to Henry Plantagenet,
inherited the duchy of Aquitaine from her father and the same Count of Anjou, who
year became the queen consort by marrying Louis VII of France. became King Henry
When Eleanor accompanied her husband, the king, on his II of England. Talk
about working both
sides of the Channel!
Some 16 years
later, she convinced
her husband Henry The Saint-Nicholas Tower was
to relinquish some constructed from 1372 to 1376 and
of the gifts she had sits at the mouth of La Rochelle’s main
given him and invest harbor on the south bank.
them in her son,
Richard “the Lion-Hearted”… this included Aquitaine. Richard
and his brother rebelled against Henry and because Eleanor
sided with her sons, she was placed in confinement where she
remained until Henry’s death in 1189. With Richard out on the
Third Crusade, Eleanor was left in charge and ruled as regent
for five years. This time in history was depicted by the 1968
movie Lion In Winter, staring Academy Award-winner Katherine
Hepburn as Eleanor.
La Rochelle was developing faster than other towns in the
area. In order to expedite this growth, from 1132 to 1137, the area The Clock Gate
between the old village and the sea was granted “liberties and
free customs.” This made the town a place of refuge, attracting the largest Huguenot center in the west of France, placing it in
a major influx of people from France and abroad. the middle of several bitter struggles over Protestantism. In the
During the following three centuries, no ruler could unite the late 17th century, some of its Protestant residents fled to North
countries that constituted the Kingdom of France and England. America and founded the city of New Rochelle, N.Y.
In reality it was the port that drove the influences of the time The period of Nazi occupation in La Rochelle during World
because it controlled the transport of wine and salt to England. War II was marked by several tragic events, including the
The shallow-entranced channel restricted ships even at high execution of the town mayor by a firing squad. The town’s
tide. The quayside was flanked by splendid town walls, while unique position on the coast made it ideal as a German U-boat
Statue of Admiral Guy-Victor Duperré the entrance to the city was through a stone gate that remains base. Huge concrete bunkers used to house those submarines still
today. The gate was altered in the 18th century when a clock was serve as a reminder of the war. The city, although never bombed,
Answer for added to the top of the tower; consequently, the structure is now found itself in a unique position in the “Atlantic Pocket,” and
was besieged by French troops. It was liberated unscathed on
referred to as the Clock Gate.
Crossword Puzzle The Clock Gate is but one of the four large towers built around May 7, 1945.
The city center of La Rochelle has been restricted to pedestrian
the harbor. Most notable are the two towers built at the mouth
of the harbor in the 14th century. The Saint-Nicholas Tower is traffic, making it an ideal way to explore the town’s character.
located on the south bank, while opposing it on the north bank is The town hall symbolizes the quality of the local community. It
the Chain Tower. These towers controlled shipping that entered took more than two centuries to build but it reflects the stability
the harbor. The Chain Tower controlled ships from slipping out of the local municipal community. The artwork of the stone
of the harbor at night without paying the port taxes. carvings leaves one overwhelmed.
The fourth large structure is the ornate Lantern Tower; also Most noticeable in the architecture is the combination of
known as the Garrot Tower. It’s located outside of the harbor English and French styles. Combining heavy stone building
proper and connected to the town by what is referred to as a with typical English half-timber construction provides unique
parapet walkway. The walkway connects the Lantern to the facades to the town streets.
Chain Tower, and was built in the mid-15th century to allow If offered a chance to visit La Rochelle, don’t pass up the
access to the town for sailors whose ships were tied up at the opportunity … you will be pleasantly surprised.
Lantern Tower. Don Kiselewski writes from his personal experiences, having
Religion was a driving force in the development of La traveled in 122 countries and cruised the oceans, seas and rivers
Rochelle. With France a Roman Catholic nation, locations of the world. Palm Beach Gardens Travel Leaders, his family
such as La Rochelle played a dominant role in the Protestant owned and operated agency, is located at Mirasol Town Square,
Reformation. As a Protestant stronghold, the town struggled to 11360 North Jog Road, Building A, Suite 102-6, Palm Beach
control the Islands of Ré and Oléron. These were the gateways to Gardens. The agency has been serving the travel needs of the
England – the country that provided support and sustenance. The South Florida area for over a quarter of a century. Contact him
reformed church, based upon the Geneva rite, was set up in 1556 at (561) 694-9696 or Aussie@PBGTravel.com.
by a minister named Pierre Richier. La Rochelle quickly became Photos by Don Kiselewski