Page 16 - Lifestyles in Palm Beach Gardens - August '19

Page 16, Lifestyles in Palm Beach Gardens
Switzerland’s Glacier Express

By Don Kiselewski, MCC, a series of ups and downs,
D.S., Palm Beach Gardens no pun intended, and quite
Travel Leaders a contrast to Florida’s less
How often have we than hilly topography.
Floridians said to ourselves, Averaging 20 mph, the
“Do I need a change of journey allows ample time
scenery?” Even with all to appreciate the constantly
of my travels, I’m still changing landscape. It is
as guilty as the next guy, here where the Rhine and
always looking at the grass Rhône rivers are born as
on the other side of the mountain streams babbling
fence. so, how much of a over stones and rocks. It
change can a person take in one dose? If you’re looking was also along this route
for the opposite end of the spectrum, I would suggest the that much of Europe’s
Alps of Europe. It is here that our givens are reversed: history was made.
flat vs. mountains; warm vs. cold; humid vs. dry; passive Departing Zermatt, the
vs active; and urban/suburban vs. rural. Glacier Express splits the
These differences were vividly highlighted when Nikolai Valley, a narrow,
I spent an entire day on what is billed as the slowest arduous stretch that has
“express” train in the world: the Glacier Express. For been exposed to the wild The Glacier Express makes a stop at Visp Station.
nine hours, the majesty of the Swiss Alps passed before forces of nature for most
my eyes through the panoramic windows of this unique of its length. It is surprising that this harsh and rather Station, which is the starting point for the ropeway (cable)
train. Here one can absorb the true beauty of the Alps, in unattractive area has been inhabited since prehistoric to the villages of Staldenried and Gspon, in a sunny slope
comfortable surroundings, without being totally exposed times. Zermatt had its own parish since the 13 century. full of vineyards. The adjoining grape-growing area of
th
to them. The steepness of the surroundings and a timberline, which Visperterminen is the highest in the Alps, at an altitude
Running in a west-by-southwest to an east-by-northeast reaches an altitude of more than 2,300 meters [7,500 of 1,200 meters [3,900 feet] above sea level.
direction, the Glacier Express connects Zermatt and the feet], contribute to the large number of glacier slides One notices that the area is quite dry, because of the
Matterhorn to St. Moritz. The line is crossed, by rail that have affected the mountaineering villages along the amount of sun the area receives and minimal amount of
lines, three times its length, at Brig, Andermatt and Chur. route. Randa, a small mountain village, was devastated rain. High above, the valley water has been collected
Starting at 1,500 meters [4,900 feet] in Zermatt, the line in 1720 and 1737, and in 1819 a glacier slide destroyed from mountain streams, since time immemorial. A system
drops 800 meters [2,600 feet] in the first 40 kilometers [25 118 buildings. of “suones” (water pipes) delivers the fresh water to the
miles] to the crossing at Brig. Over the next 80 kilometers Continuing up the line is Kalpetran Station, where villages below. The precious water is directed to the
[50 miles], the train climbs to a height of 2,000 meters one can see Embd, a village that is virtually stuck to the village through artificial stream beds covering many miles
[6,600 feet] through numerous tunnels and switchbacks mountainside, suspended above the valley. A large quartzite and following each rib of the ground with a steady fall.
to gain the altitude to clear the pass. Falling again in band runs through the slopes in this area. For centuries the The stream is diverted into pastures through a network of
the next 80 kilometers [50 miles] back to an altitude of green quartzite was mined for beautiful tiles, however the channels. This well engineered system makes it possible
600 meters [1,970 feet] at Chur, the Express then loops 5,000 tons that are now mined annually find their way to to irrigate (without pumps) every foot of arable land in
to the south over the Albula Pass into St. Moritz, billed use in expensive decorative walkways and walls. the area.
as the “top of the world” at 1,800 meters [5,900 feet]. The valley abruptly opens up to a broad expanse, with Continuing toward Brig, the Glacier Express travels
Needless to say, the 290-kilometer [180-mile] journey is the slopes covered with vineyards, the first seen on the through valleys whose north slopes are covered with
journey. This is the Saas Valley, and it meets the Nikolai saffron plants (unique to Switzerland). They are
in Stalden, where the Glacier Express crosses a deep
gorge of “chi” as it’s pronounced. Just beyond is Stalden Switzerland’s Glacier Express on page 17

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