Page 17 - Boca Club News - June '21

Boca Club News, Page 17

Grape Expectations:

“Let’s Get a Few Things Straight!”

By Ed Wolfarth, who moved to South than their German counterparts. Hugel, Zind-Humbrecht, was quite evident. Different strokes for different folks.
Florida after retiring with his wife, Albrecht and Trimbach are all excellent producers of dry Personally, I prefer Chards from Sonoma—and the Russian
Vicki, as Professor of Sports Sciences Rieslings. River region in particular.
& Physical Education at both Queens Australia, Washington State and the Finger Lakes region In France, Chardonnay is most famous in the Burgundy
College and Hofstra University. He of New York are also specializing in producing Rieslings. In area. Some would say that white Burgundy is “the crack
is a nationally ranked senior tennis Washington state, look for Eroica, a collaboration between cocaine of Chards!” Just try some, you’ll love it. Chards
player and long-time USPTA Elite Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, a fine mass producer from Bourgogne come in a few different styles. There’s
Teaching Professional. Ed has written of American wines. Eroica is often referred to as America’s Burgundy Blanc, a simple unoaked version. Then Chablis,
many educational and tennis articles finest Riesling and sells for around $20 a bottle. In New also unoaked, with a lime-like minerality—my personal
in the past. Over the past few years, Ed has turned his hobby York, look for Riesling made by Dr. Konstantin Frank. Also favorite, but expect to spend $20 to $30 a bottle. An
of wine collecting into a way of continuing his passion for seek out the cult Rieslings of Grosset Polish Hills or Jim aside here: When I open a bottle of Chablis, my dinner
writing, and has written on the subject for publications. Barry from Australia. companions never guess they’re drinking a Chardonnay!
As a self-proclaimed “wine snob,” he has collaborated on Merlot – Another misunderstood grape. I’m sure many Then there are Chards from the Maconnais, also unoaked,
many wine lists for private clubs and a few restaurants. Ed of you recall the movie Sideways, in which a wine snob and finally the creme de la creme of white Burgundy: wines
can be reached at wolfarthe@msn.com. played by Paul Giamatti, exclaims, “I ain’t drinking that from the Cote de Beaune. These are oak aged wines that are
I always bristle when my dinner companions claim they f...... Merlot!” That single phrase put the sale of Merlot rich with tastes of truffles, hazelnut and vanilla. Oak aging
don’t drink Merlot or Chardonnay, or insist, “Riesling is back 20 years. It’s true, however, that back in the ‘90s is costly, so expect to spend over $40 a bottle. Montrachet,
too sweet.” I respect their choice in wine, but still need California was producing a lot of cheap Merlot, referred Meursault are names you will find on the bottle. A bottle of
to educate them. Allow me to elaborate. Let’s talk about to as “plonk.” Not the case today. My personal favorite Le Montrachet can cost around $5,000! It’s often the most
Riesling first. Merlots are produced in Washington State. Columbia Valley, expensive white wine in the world.
Like all grape varietals, Riesling is made in many Yakima, Walla Walla, and Horse Heaven Hills are a few of While Chardonnay is made all over the world, I like
different styles. You may have been bred on Liebfraumilch the appellations producing world-class Merlot. Waterbrook, Chards from Australia and New Zealand. In particular,
or Blue Nun, those cloyingly sweet introductory wines. Columbia Crest H-3, Chateau Ste. Michelle and Milbrandt, the Chards made in the Margaret River region of Western
While many German wines are, in fact, relatively sweet, a small boutique winery, are my go-to choices. For those Australia are some of my favorites. Vasse Felix, Leeuwin,
there are levels of sweetness. And besides, have you of you with “resources,” try Leonetti Merlot for only $95 and Tyrells are excellent producers. For more affordable
looked at a can of soda recently with 39 grams of sugar in a bottle. It has outscored Chateau Petrus in blind tastings, versions, look for Xanadu, Cape Mentelle and Trentham.
a 12-ounce can? The expression in the wine world is, “We despite the fact that Petrus usually sells for around $3,500 All these wines are clean, focused and affordable. Great
talk dry but drink sweet!” a bottle, depending on the vintage! So please don’t scoff at easy drinking wines.
As for German wines, I prefer the Kabinett level—or Merlot. In New Zealand, you must look for Kumeu River! The
lowest level—of German wine sweetness. Dr. Loosen is Chardonnay – Again, the ABC crowd has it all wrong. best, most well-balanced Chard I’ve ever encountered, at
an excellent producer to seek out, and for less than $15 a “Anything but chardonnay” may have evolved when Napa an affordable price. If you want to know what a $500 Chard
bottle. Another thing to remember about German Rieslings Chardonnays were being made in a style often described tastes like and only spend $35, try Kumeu River.
is that they have a terrific balance of acidity and fruitiness as “buttered popcorn.” While that style still exists, many So, there you have it. Misconceptions abound about wine.
that pairs well with all Asian foods. producers have toned down and are now making wines with Riesling is not always sweet; Merlot is not to be scoffed at
Dry Rieslings – Yes, I said dry! That’s not an oxymoron. a bit more balance and drinkability. In Sonoma Valley, for and Chardonnay comes in many distinct and different styles.
The wines of Alsace in northeastern France, near the German example, Chards are much more balanced and fruit forward. Try a Chablis, a dry Riesling and a Washington Merlot in
border, are in fact made in a dry manner. Alsatian Rieslings In a recent blind tasting of Chards, of which I was a panelist, the near future. You will not be disappointed.
have a higher percentage of alcohol and tend to be richer the nose and taste of various California Chardonnays

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