Page 17 - Boca Club News - December '21

Boca Club News, Page 17
Dining Out: You’ll Want a Shot of this Bourbon,

But it Won’t Come Cheap!

By Alan Serinsky of Bocaire been taught, the old “red velvet rope trick.” a bit selective. I don’t like them chewy (that’s a given),
Country Club. Hungry Al’s love As a magician (true fact), I know this doesn’t take a don’t like them over-breaded, don’t like them over-fried,
for food started very young. lot of study to understand the gimmick. If you have ever and don’t like to feel they came out of a bag from the food
Never satisfied with his Mom’s traveled the nightclub scene in urban cities, you would often purveyor. These, unfortunately, checked every box.
dishes, he started to cook his see hordes of young partiers waiting behind a velvet rope Next on our trial run, Hungry L and Hungry D gave
way through her “Betty Crocker strung the along the side of a building. Like corralled steer, way to the well described Truffle Burrata ($18). In one
Cookbook.” During the years they impatiently forge their way to the front door only to small movement of the fork penetrating the outer casing
to follow he spent many hours realize the promised land is no more exciting than the club of what seemed a homemade Burrata was a volcano lava-
working in restaurants, both as server and cook, attending without the rope. like stream of a watery milky flow that left us drowning in
cooking classes and traveling the world in an effort to Ok…I fell for the trick and hype. Now, hopefully, Warren disappointment. Missing was the rich buttery texture of this
expand his palette. As a professional writer, Hungry Al makes Hungry Al (and guests) happy and content with the treat.
offers his perspective on current food trends and guides food and drinks served. Straight From the Kitchen: As a steakhouse, Warren’s
you through your local restaurant options. First Impressions: Warren’s seems like it’s squeezed has its share of options for meat lovers – from burgers to
into the middle of a new strip center that’s anchored with smoke prime short ribs or the expected ribeye, strip and
Warren’s (Bourbon & Steakhouse) a new Joseph’s market. But once you enter the large doors filet. Hungry Al was the only diner who went for a meat
15084 Log Road you magically seem to be transported back to a New Orleans selection. In choosing the 8 oz. Carrara Wagyu Filet ($56),
Delray Beach, FL 33446 “speakeasy” bar. All that’s missing is the smoky fog and a my fingers were crossed to have an exceptional piece of
(561) 455-4177 trio of jazz performers playing “Body and Soul.” Within protein. I’m thinking my fingers were not tightly crossed
warrendelray.com moments after your eyes glance the room, you will wonder enough, because there were some hits and misses.
who is obsessed with whiskey as they line the shelves like The steak requested as a medium rare leaned more to the
Food for Thought: I find my way to this new restaurant decorated wallpaper. middle temperature, but the steak had a beautiful finished
called Warren’s on the advice of Hungry Doctor R. Not There is a huge circular bar, and outdoor dining that taste. The sides were less impressive, with a token fingerling
because it was his favorite dining destination, but more as make you think they would never run out of table or bar mash potato and two lonely small asparagus stalks.
an explorer set out to discover hidden dining treasures, or space. There is also an open view kitchen behind glass, and Hungry D #2 had selected the Almond Crusted Alaskan
the pitfalls of the unknown. the staff is very accommodating for huge party gatherings. Halibut ($34). Remember when I noted a Tuesday night?
So, taking a familiar trail I go directly to Open Table and Prime Your Taste Buds: Before I discuss the starters, it After one bite I was wondering if Wednesday or later
try to reserve a table (those points do add up); but, sadly, to seems fitting at this point to discuss the whiskey menu for would have met the fish delivery on a better day. Totally
no avail. Nor did I have any more luck with my Resy app. you Pappy Van Winkle drinkers. First, all of these carefully overcooked, and what seemed by the table as a “funky”
Finally, I surrendered to calling the restaurant three days selected spirits are delivered in ounces. No country club taste, left us underwhelmed.
early, only to find out they are totally booked unless dining pours unless you’re an oil tycoon or a recent lottery winner. Hungry L was not falling for this steakhouse concept
at 9:30 p.m. is my preference. It’s not. Whiskeys are mostly delivered in 1 oz. or 2 oz. flight glasses. and went outside the box with a Lobster Seafood Bolognese
Undiscouraged, I waited a week to make a Saturday night Now for the high rollers, you can impress your friends ($34). You would have thought that utilizing fresh
reservation five days early. You guessed right. No such luck. (but not your banker) if you grab yourself a 1 oz. drink of Pappardelle pasta, Maine lobster, scallops, jumbo shrimp
Relinquishing defeat, I just settled for a Tuesday evening Macallan 50-year scotch for a mere $5,000. Yes…you read it and tasty San Marzano tomatoes, the result would have been
with their only available time at 6:15 pm. right! Or, if you’re one to toast to a good sense of monetary like dining on the Piazza Navona in Rome. Keep dreaming.
Upon arriving on a Tuesday night, we find our table value, you can feel just as important with a 15-year-old Sadly, the pasta was completely overcooked (easy to do
waiting for us among all the other two dozen tables sitting one-ounce Pappy Van Winkle bourdon for an easy $60. with fresh pasta) and the fish stock used for the Bolognese
empty. Now reality sets in and I’m realizing that Warren has But let’s not forget that Hungry Al is here for…food! sauce was overpowering as the salt of the juice resonated
figured out the oldest trick in the hospitality book: Simply Tonight, we started out our evening with a shared fried throughout the dish. The seafood did not fare much better.
an economic principle of supply and demand. Or, as I have Calamari ($16). I confess that when it comes to squid I’m Hungry D #1 took it simple with a Buttermilk Fried
Chicken Sandwich ($18). Again, the chef was heavy-handed
on the burner, or in this case the fryer. Taking your eye
off the fryer can result in a dark, over-crispy texture that
totally evades the light buttermilk texture of the chicken.
Also, please beware of the sweet heat relish that surfaces
the inside of your bun. For most of us, it will require an
additional glass of water.
From the Dessert Tray: For those who have to sweeten
their palate after dinner, you have several choices. On
tonight’s menu was Bread Pudding, Crème Brule, a Seven
Layer Chocolate Cake and, of course, a Cheesecake. Tonight
we opted out of dessert, so I look forward to your evaluation
of this course.
Check Please: If whiskey is your flavor, then I suggest
any night to belly up to the bar for a glass or two (depending
on your budget) of some hard-to-find spirits. But if you’re
coming here for a great meal, I suggest you drink up well
before setting your fork into action.
So, unfortunately, the Hungry Squad will not be “roped”
into another night here…even if it is dressed in velvet. But
given the excellent décor, I hope Warren finds a way to
distill a better performance in the kitchen to equal the subtle,
smooth, refined taste of his whiskey offerings. Sadly, the
Hungry Squad is pouring only 2 golden shot
glasses to match his 2-ounce pour of Pappy
Van Winkle.