Page 13 - Boca Club News - March '22

Boca Club News, Page 13
Dining Out: There’s Not a Good

Chinese Restaurant Anywhere…Until Now!

By Alan Serinsky of Bocaire With all the New Yorkers who reside here, you might Jacks (easy walk for Burt), this kitchen is occupying the
Country Club. Hungry Al’s love assume this cuisine would hold supreme. But it is nearly old space of Aperios in the now busy Delray Marketplace
for food started very young. impossible to find a satisfying Chinese restaurant that would on Lyons and Atlantic Ave. The emperor did a great job
Never satisfied with his Mom’s spice up our taste buds more than P.F. Chang. Before I reconstructing this floor plan and decor into the feel of an
dishes, he started to cook his traveled to China, my only expectation for this ethnic food authentic Chinese establishment.
way through her “Betty Crocker was my childhood experiences. There is no limit to the addition of bright red and aqua
Cookbook.” During the years I can still remember my Dad taking the family to our tones throughout the restaurant, or the supplement of large
to follow he spend many hours small Hudson River town’s only Chinese Restaurant. The round tables with a “Lazy Susan” centering each table for
working in restaurants, both as server and cook, attending imagery is still fresh in my mind. Budget aluminum tables traditional access to the array of small plate options.
cooking classes and traveling the world in an effort to expand and chairs, linoleum floor, typical Chinese dimmed lantern There still is an ample amount of bar stools inside or out
his palette. As a professional writer, Hungry Al offers his strung from the ceiling, generational family staff bustling for, hopefully, their “happy hour” choices in the future.
perspective on current food trends and guides you through around, and the scent of five spices resonating from the Prime Your Taste Buds: What would a Chinese
your local restaurant options. high-heated woks. Pure ecstasy. restaurant be without great appetizers? Thankfully, the
What happened? Where did these family-run dining Pagoda Kitchen comes with its good share of traditional
Pagoda Kitchen operations go? Yes, I’ve traveled to Silver Pond in small plate tastings. Our table of hungry eaters looked
Delray Marketplace Lauderdale Lakes, and I’ve reminisced the almost forgotten at the menu and thought we were at a Chinese New Year
14917 Lyons Rd #100 Uncle Tai’s, but neither of them has met my youthful celebration. The ordering with our waiter was faster than a
Delray Beach, FL 33446 recollections. Tesla showing off its acceleration.
(561) 229-1770 So, our review of this Delray newcomer was like First up was the Dim Sum Chicken Dumplings ($11/3
slamming the gong with excitement. I’m sure that Burt each), which weren’t our best starters. For me, these average
Food For Thought: It’s been over ten years since I’ve Rapoport, our local restaurateur, was chopstick picking dumplings did not warrant the price and could be found at
done a Chinese restaurant review (I’ve been writing that his brain for some time with this idea. The good news is, I any Asian restaurant.
long?). And there’s a good reason for it. There’s simply a was happy to “wok” to this Pagoda for the closest taste of As for the Sticky Rotisserie Spare Ribs ($15/4 each),
huge shortage of traditional Chinese eateries in this county, China since my days in Beijing. they were in a whole different league. The hoisin glaze on
if not in South Florida. First Impressions: Conveniently located to Burt & these very meaty pork ribs resonated that memorable flavor
I had experienced as a youth, and had me thinking about an
Grape Expectations: additional order to go!
The table also went through two orders of the Pagoda

The Perfect Ending to a Meal! Lettuce Wraps ($14). The fresh chilled Bibb lettuce made a
perfect outer wrap for the scoops of spiced ground chicken
accented with a bit of cilantro, scallions and Shisho leaves.
Next time (and there will be one), I’m going to go for
By Ed Wolfarth, who moved to When dessert comes around, we tend to just sip whatever those very inviting Duroc Pork Belly Bao Buns ($12/2
South Florida after retiring with his wine is left over from the main course. That’s a missed each).
wife, Vicki, as Professor of Sports opportunity. Straight From The Kitchen: One thing we all probably
Sciences & Physical Education at A cheese course is a great partner for sweet white wines, partake in, when eating Chinese food, is the collective
both Queens College and Hofstra like late-harvest Rieslings, Sauternes or Moscato. The experience of sharing. We decided to stay the course and
University. He is a nationally ranked sweetness of the wine cuts the fat of the cheese. Both are follow the great wall with an evening of passing the plate.
senior tennis player and long-time symbiotic in that each enhances the flavor of the other. A One of the winners of the night was the Pagoda’s Pepper
USPTA Elite Teaching Professional. classic pairing has always been Sauterne and fruit tarts or with Steak ($26). The steak was properly seasoned and tender
Ed has written many educational a salty cheese, like manchego or pecorino. At State Dinners to the fork. The sauce was perfectly balanced and with an
and tennis articles in the past. Over the past few years, in France, Chateau d’Yquem, France’s most sought-after ample amount of Shishito peppers, onions and scallions.
Ed has turned his hobby of wine collecting into a way of Sauterne, is always served with dessert or a cheese course. There was a constant dueling of forks at this serving plate.
continuing his passion for writing, and has written on the For chocolate desserts I recommend a ruby style Port, The Pagoda Chicken and Broccoli ($22) is most
subject for publications. As a self-proclaimed “wine snob,” matching richness with richness. For contrast, try a sparkling similar to a General Tso preparation. This dish is a popular
he has collaborated on many wine lists for private clubs and red wine such as Branchetto, or a sparkling Shiraz from American recipe and has a sweet and sour taste with a little
a few restaurants. Ed can be reached at wolfarthe@msn.com. Australia. heat from the chili. There were few complaints about this
We always fret about what wines to have with dinner, or Aged tawny Ports are lovely by themselves, or with dish, since all of us were familiar with it.
with friends or that special occasion, but what about after custard desserts like flan. And what about after dessert? Another favorite was the Sweet & Spicy Hunan Prawns.
dinner, or with dessert? When the feast is finished and you One of the biggest mistakes we make is thinking of an These nice size crispy shrimp were joined by peppers, onions,
can’t imagine having another bite–well you might need ginger, cilantro and touch of chili for the advertised heat.
another drink! Grape Expectations on page 14 Our least favorite came from the noodle side of the menu.
Coming in with the Peking Duck on the more expensive list
of dishes is the Short Rib Lo Mein ($40). Unfortunately, we
Everyone deserves a doctor who they was more like a Pho than an expected Lo Mein. The short
should have read the description better because this bowl
trust and like. One who listens and ribs were tender and tasty, but the noodles were drowned
in a light beef broth and carried little to no taste.
takes their time to answer questions want to stay totally traditional with the expected scoops
From The Dessert Tray: It seems that the Pagoda didn’t
and address concerns. A doctor who is of vanilla, strawberry or pistachio ice cream. Rather than
investing in a pastry chef, they opted to solicit the help of
available when you need them most. a local ice cream store called Lilly’s Gourmet Ice Cream
in Delray.
I’m not sure if this Carvel type ice cream cake company
As it makes good business sense to minimize labor cost,
I provide proactive, preventive, wellness & sick care to will work to their advantage in the long run. But, if this is
adult patients at my concierge medical practice. your preference of desserts, you have two choices of pies
(Chai Latte, Black & White), or Two Fat Cookies Coconut
Cake, or one Flourless Chocolate Cake.
Our table sampled the Black & White Ice Cream Pie
To discuss your health needs, and my care model, you ($10), and it was good but not something we would rave
are invited to a complimentary meet and greet with about.
Check Please: I must make a confession here. I have
me - by video, phone or, when the pandemic permits, in the past ten years made it a practice not to review a
in-person at my practice. new restaurant until they have worked out the kinks after
a few months. The Pagoda Kitchen has been my very first
Please call 561.368.0191 to schedule your meet and exception. Maybe it was the desire to overcome my long
overdue wait for the news of the opening of a good Chinese
greet with me. I look forward to meeting you. restaurant, or the hours of watching the Beijing Olympics

had me subconsciously thinking of Shrimp Lo Mein.
Steven E. Reznick, MD, FACP Regardless, this restaurant was a well-tuned operation
Recognized as a “Best Doc”. Practicing in our community since 1979. even during this “soft” opening. Thankfully, it wasn’t hard to
come to a mutual consensus that our Hungry Squad deemed
this dynasty of
7280 W. Palmetto Park Road | Suite 205N | Boca Raton | 33433 Chinese cuisine to
ww.BocaConciergeDoc.com be awarded four
Golden Pandas...
and one fortune cookie for good luck.